Portugal: I travelled across “the land shaped by fire”—here’s what took my breath away

Jessica Kelly

Lisbon: As I walked up the trail overlooking Sete Cidades, one of the Seven Wonders of Portugal, the landscape unfolded like a gift—an immense volcanic crater carpeted in green, clouds reflecting in the twin lakes. It was a side of Portugal I never expected to find—and that was before the incredible wildlife encounters.

Having traveled with National Geographic-Lindblad Expeditions to remarkable destinations like Antarctica and the Galapagos Islands, I’ve witnessed firsthand how they elevate exploration. Expeditions go beyond sightseeing, thanks to leading experts on hand to deepen every experience.

This wasn’t just a trip to Portugal. It was a masterclass in discovery.

Looking for an affordable retirement destination? From Braga’s historic beauty to Setubal’s coastal charm, Portugal has you covered!

You can fly to Lisbon or Porto on your own. However, for the truly curious travelers who love to learn about the world around them, National Geographic Land Expeditions chooses professionals to match each destination to elevate the experience.

The Portugal and the Azores: Explorers, Ecological Wonders and Epicurean Delights tour takes guests to five UNESCO World Heritage Sites, alongside volcanologist Dr. Arianna Soldati. Local guides provide regional context, and guest appearances—such as a local marine biologist in the Azores—offer insight into the islands’ distinct biodiversity.

We kicked off our tour in Porto, where our group would meet in the evening after we all arrived and got settled. I checked into the Hospes Infante Sagres Porto, situated in the heart of the city. It’s within walking distance of local shops, restaurants, bars, and the waterfront. The on-site restaurant, Scarlett Wine & Food, was wonderful, featuring dishes such as seared steak, watermelon gazpacho, sweet potato fries, oysters, sardines, and other items.

Check out some of the local shops, like Almada Em Branco for scarves and jewelry, Arcádia Rua do Almada for hand-painted candies and rich, smooth chocolate (try their Dubai chocolate bar with pistachio cream). I spent hours in Almada 13 and Ó! Galería, browsing through affordable prints and artwork along with home decor.

Stop by the world’s most beautiful McDonald’s to see the fast food chain location adorned with chandeliers and stained glass. Snack on Pastel de nata, a traditional Portuguese egg tart, paired with coffee before walking around the city, taking note of all the incredible tiles on the exterior of historic buildings like the Chapel of Souls.

In the evening, the group walked toward the iconic Dom Luís I Bridge, crossing the Douro River on route to Bodega Cálem for a guided tour and port wine tasting. We explored the city on foot and via tuk-tuk, starting at the Church of São Francisco, wandering through the architecture that incorporates hundreds of pounds of gold leaf.

We marveled at the intricate azulejos (painted ceramic tilework) at São Bento Railway Station, a visual narrative of Portuguese history in blue and white. Our tour also included a visit to Livraria Lello, one of the world’s most beautiful bookstores (and often cited as a potential source of inspiration for the Harry Potter series). We even enjoyed some private time exploring the bookstore before it opened to the crowds, a perk of a Nat Geo tour.

Stop by Restaurante RC for a variety of meats, cheeses, and fresh cod as a quick, but yummy lunch. The menu is rivaled only by the restaurant’s architecture, as it’s one of the most famous and preserved examples of art nouveau in Portugal.

In the evening, after touring the city of Porto, our group met up with National Geographic volcanologist Arianna Soldati, as well as our expedition leader, Jose, for an introduction to what experiences await us during our time here.

Crystal chandeliers and 1930s stained glass make the most beautiful McDonald’s in the world, and it felt far too fancy for fast food.

The following day, the group traveled to the UNESCO-recognized Douro Valley with beautiful views of the rolling hills. Our excursion options included kayaking, exploring on foot, or biking through the valley. After our activities, we savored a tasting menu at Castas e Pratos, which featured steak, fresh pasta, and rich desserts.

That evening, we checked into the Quinta da Pacheca, where the group could opt for a tour of the hotel’s vineyards and the on-site winery, or have a bit of free time to explore the hotel amenities, like the pool.

Additionally, our group took part in a private cooking class led by local chefs. We prepared fresh fish, steak, octopus, veggies, a variety of salads, and dessert—then shared it over wine and lively conversation. The whole setting was very informal in the best way. Anyone could jump in if they wanted, or just sit and relax. It was the perfect way to end the evening.

After our time in Porto and the Douro Valley, we traveled to Lisbon. Our home base was Olissippo Lapa Palace Hotel. Upon our arrival, we enjoyed an informative lecture from Arianna followed by a night to ourselves to prepare for a day of exploration the following morning.

Our group started with a tuk-tuk tour where we admired public art by Artur Bordalo and stopped at the Museu de Marinha and the waterfront to view the Monument of the Discoveries and Belém Tower. We stopped to view the church of São Roque after having lunch at Cervejaria Trindade. Our dinner at Sr. Vinho, was accompanied by live fado music, a traditional Portuguese music genre known for its soulful vocals and themes of longing, love, and melancholy.

We spent the next day in Sintra, an ideal day trip destination from Lisbon. Highlights here included a tour of the bright red and yellow National Palace of Pena, a Romanticist castle on the Portuguese Riviera, and the Quinta da Regaleira, a magnificent 16th-century manor and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

From Lisbon, we flew to São Miguel in the Azores, known for the wildlife and volcanic landscapes, and checked into the Octant Hotels Ponta Delgada for the next few days.

This was the leg I’d been most excited about, especially with volcanologist Arianna Soldati leading the way. She was inspired as a child by the eruption of Mount Pinatubo, and her passion for volcanoes is contagious. We kicked off with her fascinating lecture on the Azores, an island chain born of volcanic rock—setting the stage for the dramatic landscapes ahead.

“São Miguel comprises six volcanic zones that formed in the last 3 million to 4 million years. But the island didn’t take on its modern shape until about 50,000 years ago, when an eruption of land-forming lava joined the eastern and western volcanic massifs,” according to NASA Earth Observatory. “The oldest of the six volcanic zones is in the east; the youngest is in the west, where the most recent volcanic activity occurred. Three of the volcanoes are still active, though dormant, including Sete Cidades, which last erupted from a submarine vent off the west coast in 1880.”

The next morning, we took a tour with Picos de Aventura to search for sperm whales. As waves splashed over the sides of the boat, we spotted dolphins dancing in the distance—then, the unmistakable silhouette of our first sperm whale surfaced. It was so exciting to observe the whales in their natural habitat, with their big noggins popping up out of the water. At one point, we encountered a pod of seven—a rare and stunning sight.

Our lunch included Cozido das Furnas, a dish consisting of various meats and vegetables that’s cooked utilizing the geothermal levels in the rich volcanic soil. We spent the afternoon at Parque Terra Nostra strolling through the stunning botanical gardens and taking a dip in the volcanic hot springs, which are known for their healing properties.

In São Miguel, we visited Sete Cidades. It’s situated in the center of a massive volcanic caldera, and is known for its two colorful lakes: Lagoa Verde (green) and Lagoa Azul (blue) on the western end of the island.

After hiking and soaking in the sweeping views, we made our way to a local family farm for a warm, welcoming lunch. We enjoyed an impressive spread that included stew, fresh-baked bread with creamy butter, cheeses, meats, and fresh pineapple. After lunch, we explored the farm’s banana groves, pineapple fields, and vegetable gardens, learned how to milk a cow, and met the many resident animals—cats, bunnies, chickens, turkeys, and goats. It was an authentic and joyful glimpse into rural life on the island.

We enjoyed free time upon our return to the hotel, and our group sat down together for a lovely farewell dinner. It was the ideal way to end the trip and wish everyone a safe flight home.

My flight left much later in the day than my travel companions, so I ended the trip with a solo adventure swimming with wild dolphins with Pico de Aventura (the same company the group went whale watching with). Our group was intimate, just six guests, so we were on a much smaller vessel, and the dolphins naturally came closer.

They were swimming and jumping right next to the boat, playing in the waves. We saw so many dolphins, including the Atlantic spotted dolphins and common dolphins, before we even got into the water!

Our guides had us sit two at a time on the edge of the boat. They would position the vessel off to the side, but ahead of the pod, so that when we slid into the water gently, we could observe them passing by. No hanging on to their fins, riding them, or unethical practices, just observing these beautiful animals in the wild respectfully.

The crew went above and beyond to give everyone the best possible experience with the dolphins—though, of course, it all depends on the wildlife. Observing them was incredible, but hearing them underwater was unexpectedly emotional. Their high-pitched chatter echoed as they swam past, and we even learned they use a different frequency to “talk” to their babies—just like how humans use a higher pitch when speaking to infants.

The Azores were truly magical. Exploring mainland Portugal and the Azores with National Geographic experts who provided valuable insight into the history, culture, and geography made it that much more special.